"The customer has all of the answers and all of the questions" : an investigation of the size-inclusive apparel product development process for U.S. women's clothing through a design thinking lens
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The purpose of this study is to explore and document the apparel product development process of firms producing and selling size-inclusive apparel for women in the United States. Despite the significant growth of the U.S. women's apparel market, many consumers at the higher and lower ends of the sizing spectrum continue to face challenges in finding well-fitting and stylish clothing. This research examines how size-inclusive apparel firms integrate design thinking principles into their product development processes, identifying both alignments and deviations from traditional design thinking frameworks. A constructivist grounded theory approach was used to analyze qualitative data collected from semi-structured interviews with professionals in the size-inclusive apparel industry. Findings indicate that iteration and user empathy play a crucial role in the size-inclusive apparel product development (SIAPD) process, but unlike conventional design thinking, SIAPD requires a more nuanced, body-centered approach. Additionally, the study identifies the role of internal advocates in driving size inclusivity initiatives, highlighting the importance of organizational commitment to size inclusivity. The study also explores how firms employ multiple fit models and pattern blocks to refine garment fit and enhance consumer satisfaction. These findings contribute to a broader understanding of inclusive design and offer implications for apparel brands, policymakers, and researchers looking to advance size inclusivity in apparel. This research extends theoretical discussions on design thinking by demonstrating how it is adapted within the apparel industry to meet the needs of historically underserved consumers.
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Ph. D.
